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来源:飞度【快答】    发布时间:2019年05月20日 01:30:33    编辑:admin         

A new breed of watchmaker is breaking the industry#39;s mold of elegant-if-conservative designs by crafting timepieces out of unusual and exotic materials, including pieces of classic sports cars and parts of the Statue of Liberty. 钟表行业“传统即高雅”的设计理念正在被新一代钟表商所颠覆,他们正在使用罕见且奇特的材料来打造钟表,其中包括取自经典跑车以及自由女神像的材料。Take RJ Watches SA#39;s Moon Orbiter, a watch inspired by the Apollo missions that took the first men to the moon. Each timepiece contains metal from the Apollo 11 spacecraft used by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to get to the Sea of Tranquility in 1969. 让我们以RJ Watches SA制造的Moon Orbiter腕表为例,这款腕表的灵感源自实现了人类首次登月的阿波罗登月计划。每块Moon Orbiter腕表都含有取自“阿波罗11号”(Apollo 11)宇宙飞船的金属,1969年,尼尔·阿姆斯特朗(Neil Armstrong)和巴兹·奥尔德林(Buzz Aldrin)正是乘坐“阿波罗11号”宇宙飞船抵达宁静海(Sea of Tranquilit)的。The Geneva-based watchmaker, commonly know as Romain Jerome, also secured moon dust at an auction, incorporating the extraterrestrial particles in the timepiece#39;s dial. 这家总部位于日内瓦的钟表商为人所熟知的名字是罗曼·杰罗姆(Romain Jerome),该公司还在一次拍卖中将月面尘埃收归囊中,并在这款手表的表盘中用上了这些来自外太空的颗粒。#39;We are offering our customers the opportunity to wear a piece of history,#39; Chief Executive Manuel Emch, said at the BaselWorld watch show, which is running this week. The company has also produced watches using metal from the ill-fated passenger liner Titanic and copper removed from the Statue of Liberty when the New York statue was renovated for its 100th anniversary. 罗曼·杰罗姆的首席执行长曼纽尔·埃姆什(Manuel Emch)在本月举办的巴塞尔钟表珠宝展(BaselWorld)上表示:“我们向消费者提供的是佩戴历史的机会。”罗曼·杰罗姆还曾以取自“泰坦尼克号”(Titanic)沉船上的金属与纽约自由女神像上的铜件(百年庆典整修时被替换下来的)为原料制造过手表。Romain Jerome#39;s creations might be out of this world but the company#39;s strategy isn#39;t. Watchmakers are increasingly turning to unusual materials, including wood and gold-and-ceramic blends, to differentiate their products in an industry crowded with Swatch Group #39;s Omega and Longines lines and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA#39;s Cartier and IWC lines, as well as Rolex SA#39;s eponymous brand. 罗曼·杰罗姆的腕表或许称得上是世间极品,但是该公司的策略却并非独步天下。为了在行业中脱颍而出,在这个充斥着斯沃琪集团(Swatch Group )生产的欧米茄(Omega)和浪琴(Longines)、历峰集团(Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA)生产的卡地亚(Cartier)和万国(IWC)以及劳力士集团(Rolex SA)生产的知名腕表的钟表世界中,钟表商越来越青睐与众不同的材料,包括木材以及融合了黄金和陶瓷的新材质。Among the more wild efforts are a Richard Mille SA watch made entirely of sapphire, that sells for a cool .8 million, and the million Hallucination wristwatch created by British jeweler Graff that contains more than 100 carats of diamonds. 其中登峰造极的两款作品要属理查德·米勒(Richard Mille SA)打造的全蓝宝石腕表和英国珠宝商格拉夫(Graff)打造的镶嵌有超过100克拉 石的Hallucination腕表了。前者的售价为180万美元(约合人民币1,120万元),后者的售价为5,500万美元(约合人民币3.4亿元)。Scalfaro Watch amp; Jewellery#39;s GmbH Co. amp; KG timepieces appeal to both watch and automobile enthusiasts by incorporating parts of some of motoring#39;s most storied cars. The company, based in Neuhausen, Germany, has melted down parts of a Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing and a Porsche 917 to make its limited-edition watches. The parts are often donated by owners--material from a Ferrari 250 GTO owned by Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason was turned into luxury watches. Scalfaro Watch amp; Jewellery制造的GmbH Co. amp; KG腕表吸引了腕表爱好者和汽车爱好者的目光,因为历史上最具传奇色的一些汽车的配件被融合进了这款腕表的制作材料中。这家总部位于德国诺伊豪森(Neuhausen)的公司将一辆梅赛德斯-奔驰(Mercedes-Benz) 300 SL Gullwing和一辆保时捷(Porsche) 917的零件融化后制成了限量款腕表。用以制表的汽车零件往往是车主捐献的——平克·弗洛伊德(Pink Floyd)乐队的鼓手尼克·马森(Nick Mason)捐献的一辆法拉利(Ferrari)250 GTO就被用于打造奢华腕表。The company, whose watches cost from between EUR4,000 and EUR10,000 (,500-,800), works with the engineers who designed the cars. #39;For our customers it is a way of expressing their passion for the car,#39; said company co-founder Alexander Kuhnle, #39;Our watches tell a story. They contain the DNA of the cars and their engineers.#39; Scalfaro与参与上述汽车设计的工程师展开了合作,该品牌腕表的售价从4,000欧元至10,000欧元不等(约合人民币34,500元至人民币86,200元)。该公司的联合创始人亚历山大·库恩勒(Alexander Kuhnle)表示:“对我们的顾客来说,这是他们表达自己对汽车的热情的方式。我们的腕表会讲故事。在它们身上蕴含着这些汽车与打造这些汽车的工程师的DNA。”Some watchmakers take a more natural approach. Italy#39;s Lowell srl uses mahogany, pine and a host of other woods to make what it calls environmentally friendly watches that cost between EUR300 and EUR400. The company uses plastic from recycled bottles for the straps, it builds the cases out of wood from a furniture factory. 一些钟表商在材料选取上更加追求自然。意大利钟表商Lowell Srl选用了桃花心木、松木以及多种其他木材制成了该公司所称的环保型手表,这些手表的售价为300欧元至400欧元(约合人民币2590元至人民币3450元)。该公司选用塑料瓶回收制成的塑料作为腕表表带的材料,并用来自一家家具厂的木料做成了腕表的表盒。#39;Stainless steel watches are everywhere,#39; said Andrea Rovatti, the marketing director. #39;Not many people make wooden watches.#39; Lowell Srl的营销总监安德里亚·罗瓦提(Andrea Rovatti)称:“不锈钢表比比皆是。制作木表的商家可不多。”Hublot, owned by France#39;s LVMH Mo#235;t Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, is creating new materials to distinguish its wristwatches from the pack. 法国酩悦·轩尼诗-路易·威登集团(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA)旗下的品牌宇舶(Hublot)正在打造能够使自己的腕表与众不同的新材料。Its Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, which costs nearly 32,000 Swiss francs (,000), uses a blend of ceramic and 24-carat gold, an amalgam that carries gold#39;s luster but is resistant to scratches. The company also launched a 150,000-franc watch earlier this year with a dial made from osmium, an extremely shiny metal from the same family as platinum. 宇舶的Big Bang法拉利魔力金表(Ferrari Magic Gold)采用了陶瓷与24K金的复合材料,这种材质不仅能够彰显出黄金的奢华,还具有防刮特性。这款腕表的售价接近32,000瑞士法郎(约合人民币226,000元)。今年早些时候,宇舶还推出了一款售价为150,000瑞士法郎(约合人民币106万元)的锇表盘腕表,锇属于铂族金属,颜色极其绚丽。#39;We don#39;t want to repeat the past,#39; said Chief Executive Ricardo Guadalupe. #39;We want to make the watches of today with technology that didn#39;t exist before.#39; 宇舶首席执行长里卡多·瓜达卢佩(Ricardo Guadalupe)表示:“我们不愿复制历史。我们希望用前所未有的科技来打造今天的腕表。” /201404/293275。

Starting weeks before Christmas, Robert Ravens had to ration sales of teddy bears to people visiting his lavender farm in this remote corner of Australia to one per customer. Demand was so fierce that as soon as each furry purple Bobbie Bear shell was stuffed with a mixture of lavender and wheat, it was rushed straight to the gift store. 从 诞节前好几个星期开始,由于来自己这个位于澳大利亚偏远角落的薰衣草农场购买泰迪熊的人太多,罗伯特·拉文斯 (Robert Ravens)不得不实行每人只能购买一只的限制。由于需求太过旺盛, 被塞上薰衣草和小麦的混合物后,毛茸茸的紫色比熊(Bobbie Bear)就直接被送到了礼品店。Mr. Ravens had aly stopped shipping overseas and interstate. He had stopped taking Internet orders. His small staff at Bridestowe Lavender Estate couldn#39;t keep up with demand coming almost solely from one place: China. 拉文斯已经停止了向海外和州外供货,也不再从网上接收订单,因为他在Bridestowe Lavender Estate薰衣草庄园的小团队无法维护如此大量的需求。这些需求几乎来自一个地方:中国。#39;We#39;re not aiming to dominate the world of fluffy bears. Our business is fine lavender,#39; said Mr. Ravens. #39;But somehow we#39;ve tapped the cultural psyche of 30-year-old Chinese ladies.#39; 拉文斯说:“我们没打算控制绒毛熊的世界。我们的主营业务是优质的薰衣草,但却莫名其妙地触碰到了30多岁中国女性心灵深处的需求。”The rush on Bobbie Bears is what happens when suddenly insatiable Chinese demand meets limited supply. Mr. Ravens said the farm -- where a spacious gift shop overlooks trim rows of lavender, an hour#39;s drive through quiet farmland from the closest airport -- has seen #39;near riot#39; conditions since the rationing began. The annual number of visitors has nearly tripled in six years to 60,000 in 2013. 当中国人突如其来的强烈需求遭遇有限的供应,就会出现类似比熊需求旺盛这样的情况。拉文斯说,自限购开始后,农场就出现了“近乎暴乱”的情形。从最近的机场到这片宁静的农场有一小时车程,从宽敞的礼品店可俯瞰一排排修剪整齐的薰衣草。2013年,全年游客人数较六年前增长了近两倍,达到6万人。Wealthy Chinese have bid up the price of investment assets in recent years from property in Vancouver to French Bordeaux and modern art. As prosperity in China sps, Chinese are doing the same with consumer goods. 近几年,从温哥华房产到法国波尔多红酒,再到现代艺术品,富有的中国人已经抬高了全球各地资产投资的价格。随着中国繁荣势头的扩散,消费商品也遭遇了同样的情形。Voracious demand from Chinese tourists for luxury goods to give as gifts or to sell at a markup back home often threatens to clear the shelves of major brands in France. Gucci stores in Paris sometimes limit the number of bags customers can buy per passport to ensure supply. 薰衣草小熊中国游客对奢侈品的旺盛需求常常会导致法国各大品牌的货架被一扫而空,他们把这些奢侈品带回中国送人或涨价转手。巴黎的古驰(Gucci)商店有时会限制每本护照可购买手袋的数量,以确保供应。Karicare, a brand of milk powder made from New Zealand goats#39; milk that sells in Australia and New Zealand, has quadrupled production to 20,000 tons over the last three years to meet demand from Chinese consumers, some of whom are reselling online in China. Even that might not be enough. 在澳大利亚和新西兰有售的新西兰羊奶奶粉品牌Karicare在过去三年内将产量增加了三倍,至2万吨,以满足中国消费者的需求,他们中的一些人会买来后在中国网上转售。但即便如此,产量还是供不应求。The company, a unit of Group Danone, says on its website that due to #39;unprecedented demand#39; it cannot find enough high quality goats milk. 隶属达能集团(Group Danone)的Karicare在公司网站上宣布,由于“前所未有的旺盛需求”,公司无法找到足够的高品质羊奶。The craze for Bobbie the teddy bear has come with all the attendant effects of a China boom. 比熊热就是伴随中国繁荣带来的影响而出现的。Bridestowe sells Bobbie for about .50 or about 300 yuan, up from about five years ago, after raising the price five times. In China, online retailers currently sell them for about 400 yuan, up from 300 only a few months ago. But, Mr. Ravens said, many are knockoffs; his authorized distributor estimates 100,000 fakes have been sold online. Three online retailers reached in China all said they were selling authentic Bobbie Bears. 比熊五年前的定价是23美元左右,后来Bridestowe庄园陆续涨价五次,目前价格约为48.5美元,相当于人民币300元左右。在中国,网上零售商目前要价约400元,而几个月前才300元。但拉文斯说,很多都是冒牌货;他的授权经销商估计网上售出的假货共有10万个。记者在中国联系的三家网上零售商均表示自己出售的是正品比熊。The price of lavender in Australia is also rising, selling for to per kilogram, up from less than a year ago, according to Jean Sargeant, president of the Australian Lavender Growers Association. 澳大利亚薰衣草种植者协会(Australian Lavender Growers Association)会长让·萨金特(Jean Sargeant)表示,澳大利亚薰衣草的价格也在上涨,每公斤售价在55到90美元之间,一年前还不到40美元。#39;I#39;ve had three lots of Chinese here over the picking season,#39; said Ms. Sargeant. #39;One guy said #39;I#39;ll buy the entire crop.#39; #39; 萨金特说:“采摘季的时候这里有相当于三块薰衣草田面积的中国人。有一个人说‘ 我全都包了’。”Bobbie Bears have tapped into Chinese consumers#39; desire for peace of mind after recurring food and product safety scandals at home. 中国接连发生食品及产品安全丑闻后,比熊抓住了中国消费者寻求内心平静的渴望。#39;Anything natural from somewhere with blue skies and clean air and water is dreamy for Chinese consumers,#39; said Chen Huan, a 28-year-old who works for a public-relations firm in Shanghai. She bought four bears -- three as gifts -- from a friend. 供职于上海一家公关公司、现年28岁的Chen Huan说:“从蓝天到干 的空气和水,任何自然的东西对中国消费者来说都是梦寐以求的。”她从朋友那里买了四个比熊,其中三个是礼物。The outside of the bear itself is made in southern China. What consumers want is stuffing: lavender grown in Tasmania, without pesticides or herbicides, and locally-grown wheat, which warms up when microwaved so that the bear also works as a heat pack. 比熊外皮是在中国南方地区制造的。消费者想要的是里面的填充物:塔斯马尼亚(Tasmania)种植的薰衣草,没有杀虫剂和除草剂,还有当地种植的小麦,微波加热后会变暖,所以小熊还能当保暖袋用。Mr. Ravens, who used to be chief executive of a chemicals company, and his wife Jennifer bought the 92-year-old farm in 2007 as a retirement project. They started making teddy bears as a way to use the shed-loads of dried lavender that came with the farm. Soon they developed the idea of selling the bears to market the farm for tourism. Seeing the bear was popular among Chinese tourists to the farm, they got a store near Chinatown in Sydney to stock them. Two years ago they started marketing them in Hong Kong with the help of a celebrity chef from there. 拉文斯曾经是一家化学药品公司的首席执行长,他和妻子詹妮弗(Jennifer)于2007年买下了这座有92年历史的农场,作为他们退休后的项目。他们最初做泰迪熊是为了把农场剩下的大量干薰衣草用掉。不久他们有了通过卖泰迪熊推广农场旅游的想法。看到这些熊很受来到农场的中国游客的欢迎后,他们在悉尼中国城附近盘下一家店来存货。两年前,他们开始在香港通过那里的一位名人主厨推广泰迪熊。Demand in mainland China took off in July. A 26-year-old Chinese celebrity famous for dating a Hong Kong television personality -- and whose ex-boyfriend is a distributor of Bobbie in China -- posted a photo of herself with the bear on social media. #39;The ideal bedtime companion for a cold Shanghai night,#39; Zhang Xinyu told her 8.7 million followers on Weibo, a microblogging site. 中国内地的需求是从去年7月开始高涨的。盛传与香港某电视名人交往的26岁中国明星张馨予──前男友是比熊在中国的经销商之一──在社交媒体上发了一张与比熊的照片。她在微上对870万粉丝说,在上海这么寒冷的夜晚,它是陪我睡觉的理想伴侣Bridestowe stuffed 30,000 bears last year -- up from 3,500 in 2011 and 7,500 in 2012 -- and expects to double production this year, using a full ton of lavender for stuffing, rather than for aromatic oils, its traditional use. Bridestowe去年生产了3万只泰迪熊,而2011年和2012年分别为3,500个和7,500只。今年产量还将翻番,他们准备用一整吨薰衣草来填充泰迪熊,而不是按照传统,将其制作成精油。Nancy Li, a tour guide from the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen, led a group of middle-aged Chinese men around Tasmania in late January. She said that she intended to buy 60 bears for family and friends from Bridestowe, but decided not to visit when she heard she could only buy one. 深圳导游Nancy Li今年1月带领一个中国中年男性的旅游团去塔斯马尼亚附近旅游。她说她原打算到Bridestowe买60个熊送亲戚朋友,但听说只能买一个后就决定不去了。Mr. Ravens said people regularly try to get around the bear-buying restriction. Some people hire students to enter and leave the Bridestowe farm multiple times a day, repeatedly buying an admission ticket of about that entitles them to the right to buy a bear, he said. Some tour guides will buy the admission tickets but then not hand them over to the group, instead hoarding the bears for themselves, he said. 拉文斯说,人们常常会试图绕过限购规定。他说,有人雇佣学生一天进出农场好几次,重复购买约14美元的门票,因为有门票才能买熊。他说,有些导游会买门票,但不会把票给旅游团,而是自己囤货。While at the farm, a middle-aged Chinese academic approached this reporter to try to buy an additional bear. 在农场时,有一名中年中国学者接近记者,想再买一只熊。Mr. Ravens said people often get angry when they learn they can only buy one bear. #39;The staff are always on edge. Tempers get frayed,#39; he said. #39;Our staff don#39;t cope so well#39; with the animosity. 拉文斯说,在听说只能买一只熊的时候人们通常会很生气。他说:“员工总是处于紧张的状态,脾气变得很不好。我们的员工对人们愤怒的情绪应付得不好。”With this year#39;s lavender crop now in, Mr. Ravens has resumed selling the bears wholesale again to some stores. He is also fighting back against the counterfeiters, with each Bobbie coming with an identification tag that buyers can verify on line. 由于今年的薰衣草种植又流行起来,拉文斯又开始把熊批发给部分商店。同时他也在努力打击假货,每个比熊都会有识别标签,消费者可以在网上验。As far as Mr. Ravens is concerned, one sniff is enough to determine authenticity. #39;The Bridestowe lavender is a global classic. It#39;s unmatched. It#39;s rich and deep,#39; he said. #39;You can tell a fake from the smell.#39; 拉文斯表示,其实闻一闻就能辨真假。他说:“Bridestowe的薰衣草是畅销全球的经典,它是无与伦比的,香味浓郁深沉,从气味就能闻出是不是假货。” /201404/289870。

No matter what part of the world you live in, these days, you’re bound to encounter some very unusual ice creams. I’ve listed them according to what I think is the most awful.在当下我们生活的时代,无论你生活在世界哪个角落,一定遇到过口味非常奇特的冰淇淋。我认为其中有一些是最令人难以接受的,我将它们写了下来。1.Horseflesh- Raw horseflesh马肉——生马肉味that’s right, it’s raw meat in your favorite dessert. From Japan this is top of the list for gross and most horrible.没错,你最爱的甜点尝起来像生肉。这种来自日本的冰淇淋是我所列的名单中最恶心,最可怕的。2.Spleen and artichoke脾脏和洋葪混合味Enough to make you puke, don’t you think? You can get this in Italy.简直让人想呕吐,你不觉得吗?你可以在意大利尝到这种冰淇淋。3.Shark fin鲨鱼鳍味I’ve heard of shark fin soup, which sounds bad enough to me but why would you ruin a perfectly good dessert. Another one from Japan.我听说过用鲨鱼鳍做汤,这听起来已经够可怕的了,干嘛要糟蹋一道完美的甜点呢?这种冰淇淋也是来自日本的。4.Garlic大蒜味Are you going to keep the vampires at bay with this one. Not sure where this originates from.也许你可以用这道冰淇淋将吸血鬼拒之门外。其产地尚不可考。5.Sardines and brandy沙丁鱼和白兰地混合味The brandy part’s OK but I don’t get the sardines part. Too weird for my tastes. You’ll find this in Puerto Rico.白兰地味来可以接受,但是我不理解为什么会有沙丁鱼味。对我的口味来说太奇怪了。你可以在波多黎各(位于西印度群岛东部的岛屿)尝到这种冰淇淋。6.Sauerkraut德国酸菜味Why would anyone add pickled vegetables to spoil a delicious dessert. This one’s from Europe too.居然有人想要用腌制的蔬菜味道来毁掉一道美味的甜点,这是为什么呢?这道甜点也来自欧洲。7.Cod fish鳕鱼味Oh dear another one that smells too fishy for me. The Japanese do love their fish.哦天哪,这种口味也太腻味太诡异了。日本人确实是超爱吃鱼的。8.Spaghetti and cheese意大利面和奶酪混合味Bits of spaghetti with cheese and sometimes served with raspberry sauce.Another one from Puerto Rico.这款冰激凌吃起来像混着奶酪的意大利面,有时候上面还淋有覆盆子酱汁。这道冰淇淋也是来自波多黎各。9.Blue Stilton cheese蓝色斯蒂尔顿奶酪One of those strong and very smelly (like sweaty socks.cheeses that some people love.)Again why would you mix it with icecream? Get this in Ireland.这也是一款味道非常冲,而且气味难闻的冰淇淋(闻起来像汗湿的袜子,有些人很喜欢这种奶酪)。还是要说,为什么要把冰淇淋做成这种味道呢?你能在爱尔兰尝试一下这个味道。 /201408/318636。