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2019年01月24日 01:36:12来源:飞度免费问

  • The classic masculine button-down has this season been given a feminine twist. Spring/summer catwalks introduced shirting with new architectural proportions: strict peplums or sculptural, cut-out details tied up with ribbons. “Mensy” shirts were chopped into a severe crop and decorated with asymmetrical ruffles. 这个春夏时装季,经典款领扣式男衬衣被设计师赋予了女性风情。各个春夏季时装秀场推出了呈现全新比例结构关系的衬衣:腰部饰裙以及系着丝带的雕花图案比比皆是。男款衬衣被翻改成用非对称皱褶装点的女性风格装束。 What was once just a building block of a woman’s wardrobe has been remade as the focal point. “The great thing about shirting is that it goes with jeans, and jeans are probably the most modern, functional garment that ever existed,” says designer Jonathan Anderson whose six-piece JW Anderson x Net-a-Porter capsule launched last month. 昔日女性装束的寻常角色如今摇身一变,成为时尚界众目睽睽的焦点。“衬衣的妙用就是它能随意搭配各种牛仔装,而牛仔装或许是时装界有史以来最时髦、功能最为多样的装束。”设计师乔纳森#8226;安德森(Jonathan Anderson)这样说道。不久前,他与Net-a-Porter合作推出了JW Anderson六件单品“混搭装”(capsule)。 The collection elevates shirting to new levels: pieces include an off-the-shoulder, loose top with a sweetheart neckline and superfine spaghetti straps, and a one-shouldered pinstripe bustier with a sculpted peplum. For the designer, taking a timeless piece as a basis for a directional collection makes the pieces easily wearable. “I wanted to propose items customers would be able to combine with their actual wardrobe,” says Anderson. 该系列把衬衣提升至全新的高度:单件装中就包括了鸡心形领口与精制细吊带的宽松型露肩衬衫,配有雕花款腰部饰裙、一头露香肩的细条纹式束身胸衣。在设计师安德森看来:把适合各时尚季穿的衬衫作为设计引领风尚系列的基础,各单品衬衣于是顺理成章成了百搭装。“我希望所推出的衬衣是消费者心悦诚的百搭装。”安德森说。 Elsewhere this spring, there are loosely-tailored tie-waisted versions at Joseph and balloon-sleeved styles at Céline. For Sarah Rutson, vice-president for global buying at Net-a-Porter, shirting’s renaissance is no surprise. It’s the “backbone of a woman’s wardrobe”, she says. The site’s shirting category offers styles from 106 designers, and that’s only likely to increase, with shirts a feature on the AW16 catwalks, seen at, among others, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and 1205. Joseph与Céline等其它品牌在这个春夏时装季分别推出了腰部系结式宽松衬衣与肥袖款衬衣。Net-a-Porter全球采购部副总裁莎拉#8226;罗森(Sarah Rutson)说,衬衣的“东山再起”完全在预料之中。衬衣是“女妆之定海神针”,她说。Net-a-Porter网店上的衬衣来自106位设计师,而且,随着衬衣成为2016秋冬季时装秀(Preen by Thornton Bregazzi与1205等众多品牌就是明)的一道亮丽风景线,Net-a-Porter上网销售的衬衣品牌只会越来越多。 This month meanwhile sees the launch of MatchesFashion.com’s shirting collaboration with Joseph Altuzarra: an exclusive five-piece collection born out of the fact that the designer’s shirt-dresses were forever selling out on the site. 与此同时, MatchesFashion.com将推出与设计师约瑟夫#8226;奥图扎拉(Joseph Al#172;tu#172;zarra)合推的衬衣:这个限量版五件套系列的横空出世,源于后者设计的礼衬衣在MatchesFashion.com网店总是供不应求。 This new focus on the staple is great news for shirting brands too. When Central Saint Martins graduates Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer founded their label Palmer Harding in 2012, they homed in on shirts as they felt it was good to have a niche. “Rather than trying to build everything at once, specialising in one garment allowed us space for constant refinement,” says Harding. 消费者关注销路稳定的产品,对于各大品牌而言同样是重大利好。毕业于中央圣马丁艺术学院(Central Saint Martins)的马修#8226;哈丁(Matthew Harding)与莱维#8226;帕尔默(Levi Palmer)于2012年合创Palmer Harding品牌时,他们把目标投向了衬衣,因为他们认为创建这个细分行业前景广阔。“我们不想一下子眉毛胡子一把抓,而是专注于衬衣,此举能让我们不断精益求精。” Palmer has a degree in pattern-cutting from Dallas University — and the duo’s technical skills have led to the nickname “the shirt boys”. Palmer Harding has a list of rules for its shirting: cotton only; collars must have two types of interfacing; and each seam has 18 stitches per inch, with most constructed with French seams, for softness. (Many of their pieces are created via draping fabric on the model, with the shirting elements added in afterwards.) 帕尔默曾获得达拉斯大学(Dallas University)的裁剪专业学位—这对黄金组合的出色设计技能使其获得了“衬衣男神”的绰号。Palmer Harding的衬衣有一整套规则:只采用纯棉面料,衣领必使用两种衬布,每个接缝采用每英寸18针,而且多数接缝采用法式线缝法,以期增加柔软度。(很多单件衬衣设计时,先在模特身上试面料,而后再添加各个衬衣组件。) Their four annual collections include a variety of shirting interpretations, each referred to by a model number. Such has been the popularity of number 96 (introduced in 2013, pictured below), they have struggled to keep up with orders, and there is often a long waiting list for the shirt. Its appeal is obvious: crafted from five metres of fine German cotton, the top is a classic button-down with long sleeves and big cuffs, which gives way to a vast, asymmetric maxi length. “It’s a very dramatic piece and it creates a massive silhouette,” says Harding. “But at the same time, it’s just a cotton shirt.” 他们每年推出四个时装系列,其中就有众多衬衣款式,每一款都由模特号代表。风靡一时的96号衬衣就是如此。该款衬衣的订单多得让他们力不从心,总是供不应求。其魅力显而易见:它由5米德国上乘棉布料手工打造而成,这款长袖子与大袖口的经典款领扣式衬衣最终呈现的是非对称的超长款式。“这款夸张做作的衬衣穿在身上,气势逼人。”哈丁说。“但与此同时,这只是一款棉衬衣。” The button-down has come a long way from its humble origins. “In the past, the gentleman’s shirt was relegated to being worn as an undergarment. Unless you were fighting a duel, it really wasn’t on display,” says Kristina Rate, who founded her London-based Belle Epoque label in 2013. Her first collection was comprised entirely of white shirts inspired by the actress Lauren Bacall. “Today, it’s a powerful fashion staple — it’s the most-worn piece of clothing by both sexes.” 领扣式衬衣最初是名不见经传的角色,历经漫长岁月,方有今日之地位。“过去,男士衬衣只是穿作贴身内衣。除非参加决斗,否则它难露真身。” 克里斯蒂娜#8226;凯特(Kristina Rate)说,她于2013年在伦敦创办自己的品牌Belle Epoque。她推出的第一个时装系列全是白衬衣,其设计灵感来自于影星劳伦#8226;巴考尔(Lauren Bacall)。“如今,这是一款畅销装——它是男女拥趸最喜欢的单品。” Whereas the classic white shirt will always sell, this season is all about the statement. “We’ve always loved a woman in a white shirt,” says Tome’s Ramon Martin from the brand’s 25th Street studio in NoMad, a tiny New York neighbourhood nestled between Chelsea and Flatiron. The studio is a big, white, open space with all-day sunlight and sky views, where everything from the designing to pattern-cutting and fittings takes place. “It’s an inspiring space to be in,” says co-founder Ryan Lobo. 尽管经典款白衬衣一直畅销,但这个时装季,却是华丽高调的女款衬衣独领风骚。“我们一直对身穿白衬衣的女性情有独钟。”Tome设计师拉蒙#8226;马丁(Ramon Martin)在位于NoMad第25街的工作室如是说道,NoMad是位于纽约切尔西(Chelsea)与熨斗区(Flatiron)之间的一处微型社区。工作室是一处面积巨大的白色开放式空间,全天阳光通透,蓝天白云一览无遗,从设计、裁剪到拼接的所有工作都在里面完成。“身处其中,灵感源源不绝。”该工作室共同创始人瑞恩#8226;洛(Ryan Lobo)说。 Alongside its y-to-wear collections which always includes shirts, in 2014 Tome launched a collaboration with the charity Freedom for All. The White Shirt Project is a twice-yearly capsule of around three shirts, with profits going to the charity’s efforts to eradicate slavery and human trafficking. “We see the white shirt as a metaphor for a clean slate,” says Lobo of the collaboration. 在推出成衣系列(总有衬衣)的同时,Tome2014年还与慈善组织Freedom for All合推了一个时装系列,The White Shirt Project每年两次推出混搭款衬衣,每次大约推出三件衬衣,所得利润捐于Freedom for All,根除奴隶制与贩卖人口的慈善事业。“我们认为白衬衣寓意个人历史一清二白。”洛说。 Women are at the forefront of the Tome brand: whether it’s the female artist they take inspiration from each season (past choices have included Georgia O’Keeffe and Louise Bourgeois), the women in their six-strong atelier, or their clients. They are mindful of ensuring their collection has a democratic offering, and take on board feedback about everything from design to price points. “We ask them, ‘Would you wear this? Do you like this colour? Would you put this on?’#8202;” says Martin. “‘Would you buy it? And pay 0 for it?’ We enjoy learning about what inspires women and, practically, what satisfies them.” 不管是女性艺术家(每个时装季,旗下设计师都会从其身上汲取设计灵感,过去的例子就包括了乔治亚#8226;奥基夫(Georgia O#39;Keeffe)与路易丝#8226;布尔乔亚(Louise Bourgeois)等女性艺术家)、工作室六位知名设计师中的女性成员、还是客户群,女性一直位居Tome品牌最重要的地位。Tome是有心者:确保自己推出的系列做到采众长,而且愿意倾听从设计至价位的各种反馈意见。“我们会问女性,‘您愿意穿这吗?喜欢这款颜色吗?会穿它吗?’”马丁说。“‘您会买吗?愿意出500美元吗?’我们乐于了解女性喜欢的东西,即她们实际青睐啥。” For brands like Tome, it’s shirting season every season. “A blank page for a writer is an opportunity for just about any inspiration, and maybe the white shirt allows the same thing,” says Martin. “That white page allows our customer, our woman, to create whatever she wants of herself.” The shirt then allows for renewal. “They’re everyday heroes,” he concludes. 对于Tome这类品牌来说,衬衣成了包打各个时装季的唯一产品。“对于作家来说,各种写作灵感都能跃然于一张白纸上,或许白衬衣也是如此。”马丁说。“一件白衬衣能让我们的女性客户肆意打扮。”衬衫的花样就会不断推陈出新。“它们就是平日生活的主角。”他总结道。 /201605/440563。
  • Why Your Home Stinks and How to Fix It你的房子为什么这么难闻?如何解决呢?There are, however, more insidious aromas that linger and seem impossible to eliminate, no matter how many bottles of Febreeze you unleash. To keep these odors from taking over your home, first, you have to identify them.不管你用了多少瓶空气清新剂,总是会有一些隐伏的味道在屋内残留,似乎无法消除。为了避免这些味道占满你的整个房子,首先你应该识别出是什么味道。Maybe you’ve noticed a “musty” or “wet cardboard” smell in your home. Or perhaps you’ve referred to it as “old home smell.” Either way, one of the most common causes of lingering, musty smells, especially in older homes, is hidden mold, usually in the walls.也许你已经意识到房子里的味道是“霉味”或者是“潮湿的纸板味”。或许你会将这种味道称作为“老房子的味道”。无论如何,霉味在房子(尤其是老房子)中逗留的最为常见的原因就是,它们是隐藏的霉,通常存在于墙里。As you probably know, some types of mold can be toxic. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), most household mold problems under 10 square feet are safe enough to clean on your own and don’t need a professional, but to be safe, you should up on the different types of mold at the EPA’s website here.你也许知道,一些种类的霉是有毒的。据环境保护局所述,如果家庭中出现的霉面积小于10平方英尺,那么大多数都是可以由家庭成员自行清理的,并不需要专家帮助,但为了安全起见,你应该先在环境保护局的网站上研究好不同种类的霉。For small, non-toxic mold problems, like the mold that accumulates on windowsills and frames, simply clean the mold with a soap and water solution, as instructed in the . Vinegar or diluted bleach are also useful. Add it to water, then spray directly on the mold and clean up. For larger mold problems, you should call a professional.对于小的,无毒的霉问题,就像那种堆积在窗沿和窗框上的那种霉,可以像视频中所指导的一样,只用肥皂和水溶液进行清洁。也可以使用醋或者稀释的漂白剂。将它滴到水里,然后直接把水泼到霉上,再清理。对于大一些的霉问题,你应该请专家帮忙。Keep closets, dresser drawers, basements — any place where mildew is likely to grow — as clean as possible. Soil on dirty articles can supply enough food for mildew to start growing when moisture and temperature are right.保持壁橱,梳妆台抽屉,地下室-----任何可能长出霉的地方尽可能的干净。当湿度和气温合适时,脏东西上的泥土可以为霉的生长提供足够多的食物。Sp a layer of moisture-barrier material over the soil in crawl spaces under houses. You can use heavy roofing paper or polyethylene plastic film. Good ventilation is important. If possible, do not enclose the crawl space. In extreme cases, a fan or blower may be needed to move the humid air from under the building.在位于房间下面供电水管道槽隙的泥土上,撒上一层防湿材料。你可以使用重的屋顶纸或者聚乙烯塑料膜。好的通风也十分重要。如果可能的话,不要密封槽隙。在极端情况下,可以添加一个风扇或者鼓风机来移除建筑物下的潮湿空气。译文属 /201606/447423。
  • Flying is cheaper than it used to be. Adjusted for inflation, a ticket from LA to Kansas City cost 5 in 1955, compared to a couple hundred bucks today. Flights are more affordable these days, but pretty much everything costs extra.现在坐飞机比以前便宜多了。为了适应通货膨胀,1955年从拉丁美洲到堪萨斯市的机票价格为575美元,今天却只需要200美元左右。现在许多人都有能力坐飞机了,但是却又许多额外的费用。下面是如何避过这些隐性收费的方法。1.The Most Common Hidden Airline Fees, All In One List1.最普遍的航空隐性收费,都在一张单据上面There used to be a time that the price you paid for a flight was the published cost.一般情况下你付款的凭据是航空公司打印出来的金额。2.Avoid Baggage Fees With Smart Packing and Airline Credit Cards2.避免小件行李以及航空信用卡的行李费用。If I think hard enough, I can remember when checking luggage was free. These days, almost all airlines charge extra if you check a bag rather than just carry it on your flight.如果努力想的话,我记得交运行李是免费的。现在,如果你交运自己的行李而不是单单将包裹带上飞机,几乎所有航空公司都会收取额外的费用。Trip Advisor has a full list of baggage fees by airline here, and prices typically range from to for the first bag. Delta, ed, and Virgin all charge for the first checked bag on domestic flights, for example. Discount airlines like Spirit typically charge more. Their checked baggage fee starts at and increases depending on the weight. Southwest Airlines is one of the few to offer a free checked bag (the third one costs , though).旅途助手提醒你下面这些航空公司收取的行李费用,第一个包裹的价格一般在25美元到75美元之间。例如,德尔塔、美国和维尔京在国内航班的第一个交运的包裹收费为25美元。勇气航空公司的打折机票一般情况下行李交运费会更高。他们的交运行李费用30美元起步,依据姓李的重量增加费用。西南航空公司是为数不多的免收交运行李费用的公司之一(但是第三件行李的交运费用为75美元)。 /201607/452877。
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