袁州区开个眼角多少钱飞度快对话网

来源:搜狐娱乐
原标题: 袁州区开个眼角多少钱飞度四川新闻网
The mother of a little boy who was upset about his new glasses asked some friends to help reassure him about his new look.一个小男孩因为自己的新眼镜而闷闷不乐,他的妈妈请了一些朋友来帮他对自己的新外形树立信心。Lindsey Fisher began a Facebook account called Glasses for Noah, where bespectacled friends could send in pictures of themselves to reassure her son, Noah, about becoming a glasses-wearer.林赛·费希尔开了一个新的Facebook主页叫“诺亚的眼镜”。戴眼镜的朋友可以把自己的照片发到这个主页来告诉她的宝贝:戴眼镜也很酷。Fisher reached out to friends and family, but the page took on a life of its own and strangers from around the country have sent in pictures for four-year-old Noah.费希尔只是向朋友和家人求助,但是这个主页很快就流传甚广,来自全国各地的陌生人都开始向4岁宝贝诺亚送照片。Noah Fisher, four, looks very dapper in his black-rimmed spectacles, but he was very worried about what kind of reception he would get.4岁的诺亚·费希尔戴着黑框眼镜,看上去十分帅气,但是他对别人会怎么评价自己很担忧。#39;I said, ;Put your glasses on,; and he just broke into tears,#39; Lindsey Fisher told USA Today.林赛·费希尔告诉《今日美国》记者:“我让她把眼镜戴上,他直接就哇哇大哭起来。”#39;It was the saddest thing. It just broke my heart. And I finally got him to tell me why he was crying and he said because everyone was going to laugh at him.#39;“这件事情很让人难过,我心都碎了。我最终才套出他哭的原因。他说他觉得所有人都会嘲笑他。”Fisher enlisted friends to post on Glasses for Noah and soon it had received hundreds of likes and pictures to help reassure little Noah.费希尔召集朋友在“诺亚的眼镜”主页上上传照片。不久,主页就收获了数百个赞和照片来帮助安抚小诺亚。#39;Our sweet 4-year old, Noah, just got glasses and is having a hard time adjusting. Let#39;s show him just how cool glasses really are!#39; s the Facebook page.Facebook主页上写道:“我们四岁的小甜心诺亚刚刚有自己的新眼镜,现在正在艰难地适应过程中。让我们向他展示戴眼镜究竟可以有多酷!”Now, the page has 923 #39;likes#39; and Fisher says that as long as people keep posting pictures, she#39;ll keep it going.现在这个主页已经有923个赞了。费希尔说,只要人们还在上传照片,她就会继续运营这个主页。#39;It was very humbling to see how the community took time out of their day to post a picture of themselves for a little boy that half of them don#39;t even know,#39; she told USA Today.她告诉《今日美国》记者:“看到社区里的人们是怎样抽出时间为一个小男孩上传照片,而且其中半数都不认识这个小孩,真是让人惊喜的一件事。”The uploaded pictures have messages of support for Noah to show him that there is nothing uncool about wearing glasses.上传的照片都向诺亚明了:戴眼镜丝毫没有不酷的地方。#39;I don#39;t know how many more likes or pictures we#39;ll get but as long as I#39;m getting pictures, I#39;ll keep showing them to him every night,#39; Fisher said.费希尔说:“我不知道我们还会得到多少赞和图片,但是只要我得到新照片,我就会每天晚上都给他看这些照片。” /201312/267171Hop compound boosts brain function - but you#39;d need to drink 3,500 PINTS a day啤酒能让你更聪明吗?啤酒花中所含的化学物质能刺激大脑功能-前提是每天喝3500品脱。Beer, or at least one of its ingredients, could boost brain function, a new study has found.啤酒或者至少啤酒的一个成分能提高大脑功能。But a leisurely pint is unlikely to have any intellectual benefit, because a person would need to drink the equivalent of 3,520 pints (2,000 litres) a day to stand any chance of boosting their cognitive abilities.但是,如果仅仅是全为消遣而喝下的一品托啤酒是不会起到任何智力上的增强作用的。一个人一天起码要喝下相当于3250品脱(2000升)的啤酒才有可能使大脑的认知能力得到增强。Researchers demonstrated that xanthohumol – a type of flavonoid found in hops and beer - improved cognitive function in young mice.研究者明xanthohumol——一种在啤酒花和啤酒中发现的类黄酮——能够改善年轻的小老鼠认知功能。Flavonoids are compounds found in plants that often give them their colour and scientists have been studying them in blueberries, dark chocolate and red wine to uncover any potential benefits that could help fight cancer and heart disease, for example.类黄酮是一种常见于植物自身着色用的化合物,科学家正在研究蓝莓,黑巧克力和红酒中所含的类黄酮以揭秘类黄酮对于治疗癌症,心血管类疾病等的潜在效益。Scientists hope that xanthohumol could be used to treat metabolic syndrome, a condition associated with obesity and high blood pressure, as well as age-related deficits in memory. The rare micronutrient is found in the hops, commonly used to make beer.科学家们希望黄腐酚可以用来治疗代谢综合征、肥胖和高血压相关症状以及与因老化衰退。在常用的啤酒和啤酒花中发现含微量的营养物质。Experts at Oregon State University (OSU) believe they have taken a step to understanding the degradation of memory that happens with age in many mammals, including humans, because no effect was seen in older mice used in the study.俄勒冈州立大学的教授认为,他们已经开始研究为什么常见于包括人类在内的大多数哺乳动物的衰老造成的减退的状况却在试验用的年老老鼠身上没有发生。They studied xanthohumol in high dosages - beyond what would be naturally ingested as part of a normal diet - and found that it appears to enhance young animals’ ability to adapt to changes in their environment.他们研究了黄腐酚高剂量-超出了正常饮食会自然摄入的一部分,并发现它似乎增强年轻动物适应环境变化的能力。The cognitive flexibility of the mice was tested with a specially designed maze and younger mice showed signs of intellectual improvement.在为小鼠的认知灵活性测试特别设计的迷宫中,年轻的老鼠表现出认知进步的迹象。The levels of xanthohumol used in the study were only possible using supplements, so that if a human was to stand any chance of seeing positive cognitive effects, they would have to drink ‘2,000 litres of beer a day to reach the xanthohumol levels we used in this research,’ the experts said.因用于该项研究的黄腐酚量很大,只可能使用浓量高的制剂才能满足研究的所需量,所以,如果要对人的认知起到积极效果,一天就得喝2000升啤酒才能达到我们用于这项研究的黄腐酚量。‘Xanthohumol can speed the metabolism, reduce fatty acids in the liver and, at least with young mice, appeared to improve their cognitive flexibility, or higher level thinking,’ Daniel Zamzow, a former OSU doctoral student said.“黄腐酚可以加快新陈代谢,减少肝部脂肪酸。并且在试验中,年轻的老鼠展现出了认知能力的提高以及更高层次的思维能力。”丹尼尔 扎姆卓尔,前俄勒冈州立大学士研究生说。‘Unfortunately it did not reduce palmitoylation [a normal biological process] in older mice, or improve their learning or cognitive performance, at least in the amounts of the compound we gave them,’ Dr Zamzow, who is now a lecturer at the University of Wisconsin/Rock County, added.“不幸的是它并没有降低老年老鼠的棕榈酰化(一个正常的生物过程),或者改善他们的学习认知能力,至少在我们给他们的化合物的数量上,”现在是威斯康辛大学的讲师的扎姆卓尔士补充道。Kathy Magnusson, a professor at OSU, said: ‘This flavonoid [xanthohumol] and others may have a function in the optimal ability to form memories.’所以马格努松凯西,俄勒冈州立大学教授说:“这类黄酮和其他物质可能在形成最佳形式的记忆能力方面有作用。”‘Part of what this study seems to be suggesting is that it’s important to begin early in life to gain the full benefits of healthy nutrition.’“这项研究也表明了在生命初期,即年轻时期,摄入足够健康营养物质的重要性及益处。” /201411/340036

Invited by China`s First Lady Peng Liyuan, US First Lady Michelle Obama is visiting China with her daughters this week. The two ladies will definitely attract attention in terms of fashion. Peng turned the world onto Chinese designer Ma Ke and the label Exception de Mixmind, while Mrs. Obama has made famous the American designer Jason Wu, along with Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. Before their styles meet, let us review some of the attractive moments the two First Ladies have had under the public eye.应中国国家主席习近平的夫人彭丽媛女士之邀,美国第一夫人米歇尔?奥巴马将携两个女儿于本周开启访华之旅。毫无疑问,两位女士的时尚穿着将会引起各界关注。彭丽媛将中国设计师马可和其打造的装品牌“例外”推向了世界舞台,而奥巴马夫人则让美国设计师Jason Wu、Michael Kors以及Ralph Lauren名声大噪。在她们展开真正的“时尚交锋”之前,让我们先来回顾一下这两位第一夫人在公众视线下的迷人时刻吧!First Strike第一回合Michelle Obama wore a Thom Browne design to the US Presidential Inauguration. The Fist Lady arrived at St. John`s Church in Washington DC, wearing a checked-pattern overcoat. Her dark pink gloves were also highlights of her outfit.米歇尔?奥巴马身穿Thom Browne品牌饰亮相美国总统就职典礼。这位第一夫人身着格纹大衣出现在华盛顿圣约翰教堂,玫红色的手套也成为她这身装扮的一大亮点。Peng, who accompanied her husband President Xi Jingping on his first state visit to Russia, wore a navy blue coat from designer Ma Ke. Her overcoat, together with the square black handbag, was very elegant. Her look`s highlight was in her light-blue scarf, adding a light style to her classic look.彭丽媛身穿设计师马可打造的藏青色外套,陪同习近平主席对俄罗斯进行首次国事访问。这身外套配上方形的黑色手袋令她本人看上去格外优雅。浅蓝色的丝巾无疑是整个造型的亮点,给她这身经典搭配增添了一抹淡雅之感。Layers层次搭配Peng Liyuan used different shades of blue to create a flowing style, such as a long dark blue shirt matching a light blue skirt. The best part was her thin leather belt, in milky white, which added something fresh to her total look. Michelle Obama, on the other hand, used a cape-like shirt to match a cherry one-piece long dress. Her belt featured a few metallic touches, which went well with her ring.彭丽媛用不同层次的蓝色营造出一种行云流水的风格,例如用深蓝色长款衬衫搭配浅蓝色裙子。乳白色细腰带是这身造型的最大亮点,为整个搭配增添了一点清新感。米歇尔?奥巴马则用斗篷式外套搭配樱桃红色的连衣裙。她的腰带展现出一些金属质感,和所佩戴的戒指相映成彰。White shirt白衬衫Michelle Obama`s white shirt was tight, with giant flounces. It was feminine, stylish, and delivered a strong and independent office look. Peng Liyuan`s white shirt, on the other hand, was wide in the cuffs and shoulders. It was elegant, classic, and especially so when she matched it with a same color tote and earrings.米歇尔?奥巴马的白色衬衣在讲究修身的同时又点缀了巨大的荷叶边。知性而时尚,透露出一股职业女性的坚强与独立。彭丽媛则身穿一件宽肩宽袖口的白色衬衣,尤其再配上同色系的手袋和耳环,更显优雅和经典。Formal suit套装Michelle Obama picked a baby blue suit for an official ceremony to welcome British Prime Minister David Cameron and his wife. The suit was a Zac Posen design. Peng Liyuan, on one formal occasion, wore a dark gray-and-green suit. However, she skillfully used a silk scarf, and she is known for her well-matched scarves!在出席为英国首相戴维?卡梅伦夫妇举行的官方欢迎仪式上,米歇尔?奥巴马挑选了一身淡蓝色的Zac Posen套装。而彭丽媛在一次正式场合上,身着深灰绿色套装。不过,她巧妙地搭配了一条丝巾。众所周知,彭丽媛十分擅长用围巾进行巧妙搭配。Conclusion: a promotion of home brands结论:不遗余力地宣传本国品牌The two First Ladies` power in fashion lies in their promotion of home-grown brands and designers.两位第一夫人的时尚影响力在于对本国品牌和设计师的大力推广。 /201403/281659

What does a century-old brand do when it grows out of the very business that inspired its name? After announcing in December 2013 that it would to shed billion worth of its commodity chemical business, Dow Chemical will have to figure that out.一个行业里百年的品牌到底有什么价值?2013年12月宣布裁减总值50亿美元商品化学品业务的陶氏化学公司(Dow Chemical)很快就会认清这个问题。The company is focusing more resources on higher-value specialty materials products like semiconductor chips for cell phones and moving away from the lower-margin chlorine business. In turn, executives are considering ridding ;chemical; from its title as well, according to a company spokesperson.这家公司目前更加关注高附加值的特殊材料产品,例如手机用的半导体芯片,并逐步退出了低利润空间的氯化学业务。根据公司发言人表态,公司高层正在考虑将“化学品”(Chemical)一词从公司名字中删去。Chief executive Andrew Liveris told The Wall Street Journal that a potential name change would hopefully help position the company as one linked by ;chemistry rather than chemicals; as it transforms.公司首席执行官安德鲁#8226;李佛利斯对《华尔街日报》(The Wall Street Journal)表示,更名能帮助公司实现从“化学品至化学工业”的定位转型。But as corporations evolve their strategy, their brands can change too -- for better or for worse. And if history is any indication, an identity change followed by a title switch can cause a company more trouble than it#39;s worth. Corporations spanning industries as diverse as technology to defense have all rebranded themselves only to the peril of their businesses. While some have successfully navigated the dangers of a new title, these instances prove to be the exception rather than the rule.随着公司不断调整发展战略,它们的品牌也会发生变化—无论结果是好是坏。但就历史经验来说,公司身份变化带来的更名通常给公司带来的麻烦要大于好处。从技术到国防,各行各业都有公司更名的案例,不过都严重危及到公司业务。尽管个别公司最终成功走出了更名的阴影,但这些不过是例外,而非惯例。;As long as they keep Dow... as long as they don#39;t change that name, the company will not suffer from dropping chemical from its name, ; said Deutsche Bank Equity Analyst David Begleiter.“只要他们还坚持陶氏(Dow)的这个牌子……只要他们不改名字,公司就不会因为名字中少了‘化学’(Chemical)这个词而受损,”德意志(Deutsche Bank)券分析师戴维#8226;贝格雷特指出。Read on to discover seven companies who found out firsthand how challenging a name change can be.请大家继续往下阅读,看看更名给我们今天介绍的7家公司带来了怎样的挑战。Research In Motion to BlackBerry (2013)RIM公司更名为黑莓(2013年)In January 2013, Research In Motion announced that it would change its name to BlackBerry after the widely known smartphone device. Executives made the announcement in tandem with its new mobile platform, BlackBerry 10, hoping that they could revitalize the declining brand. Despite the change, BlackBerry did not follow up with a significant change in strategy and the stock price continues to suffer as a result, said James Moorman, an analyst for Samp;P Capital IQ.2013年1月,行动研究公司(Research In Motion)对外宣布将根据它广为人知的智能手机品牌,更名为黑莓公司。公司管理层在推出新的手机平台、黑莓10(BlackBerry 10)的同时宣布了这项决定,希望藉此重振式微的品牌。Samp;P Capital IQ分析师詹姆斯#8226;尔曼指出,尽管采取了上述变革措施,黑莓公司战略上并没有显著的变化,股价仍然不断下跌。;The fact is that a name change doesn#39;t matter when no one buys your new hardware. So in this case it was a bust, ; Wedge Partners Principal and Senior Research Analyst Brian Blair told Fortune.“事实上,公司更名并不会影响消费者的购买决定。本案中,公司上述策略实属败笔,” 市场调研公司Wedge Partners 高级责任研究分析师布莱恩#8226;布莱尔对《财富》杂志这样表示。 /201312/268589There are always some trends that never seem to fade or get old in fashion. Stripes and camouflage prints are two typical examples. With various ways to wear them, they are gaining in popularity from catwalks to public streets this season.总有些时尚从不褪色也永不过时,条纹和迷就是两个典型例子。因为其百搭的风格,条纹和迷成为本季风靡T台和街头的时尚宠儿。But to wear them well is not that easy. Here, we offer some tips and recommend a few pieces to help you catch up with these trends properly.但想要穿出水准也并非易事。在此,我们为你提供一些搭配诀窍,以便你能精准无误地紧跟潮流。Vertical stripes竖条纹If you carry most of your weight in the midsection, you belong to the apple figure. What you need are vertical stripes. They elongate and divert attention from your horizontal shape. If you are tall, but on the heavier side, choose thinner stripes. On the contrary, if you are thin, bolder stripes will make you look a bit bigger.若你肚子上有“游泳圈”,那么你属于苹果型身材。那么你适合竖条纹,它可以起到拉长身形的作用,将人们的注意力从你发福的身材上移开。如果你个子高,但体重超标,那么就选择细条纹吧!反之,如果你身材纤细,那么宽条纹就会让你看起来更加丰满。Also, it would be best to stick with darker stripes, because contrasting colors add more depth.暗条纹也是个绝佳之选,因为对比色会增加视觉深度。Horizontal stripes横条纹Much like vertical stripes create an illusion of length, horizontal stripes can broaden the body. They are for slim women and make them look curvier, especially with bold, thick stripes. For example, wearing a shirt with a horizontal stripe across the chest or wrapping a thick belt around the hips are good choices.竖条纹可以营造出拉长身形的错觉,而横条纹则令体形看上去更加丰满。这种条纹适合身材偏瘦的女性,会让她们看起来更具曲线美,尤其是粗横条纹。比如,穿一件前襟饰有横条纹的衬衫或者系一条宽腰带都是个不错的选择。For men, bold horizontal stripes also help widen the upper body and create the desirable inverted triangle shape they usually yearn for.对于男士而言,粗横条纹也能起到拓宽上半身的视觉效果,从而打造出他们向往已久的倒三角身材。Diagonal stripes斜条纹Diagonal stripes can be worn by most figure types, but are especially suitable for plus size women, as well as tall women with boyish figures. For thin women that want to look even thinner, diagonal stripes are the right choice. Askew diagonal stripes can add to a curvy look.大多数身材都可以驾驭斜条纹,尤以体态丰满的女士以及身材高大的“女汉子”最为适合。如果身材纤瘦的女士想要看起来更苗条,斜条纹是正确之选。不规则的斜条纹还能穿出玲珑有致的感觉。The key to wearing this look is to think of the direction of the stripes to show off the best parts and hide the worst. For example, a skirt with the diagonal stripes coming in at the middle and pointing up to the waist will work to make your waistline look smaller.驾驭这种风格的关键在于“扬长避短”。例如,选择一条纹路从中部开始,呈V字型直指腰间的斜纹裙,会让你的腰部看上去更纤细。 /201404/293876

One year after PayPal founder Max Levchin helped launch Glow, the fertility app has some impressive results: the service takes credit for 25,000 pregnancies. As notes stream in from excited users, often accompanied by photographs of astonished newborns, it’s hard not to get the warm fuzzies.一年前,贝宝(PayPal)创始人麦克斯o列夫琴参与推出了“好”应用软件Glow。现在,这一应用已经带来了可观的成果——2.5万名女性通过它成功晋级准妈妈。兴奋不已的用户发来的感谢信如雪片般飞来,不少信函还带有新生宝宝表情惊异的照片,这不免让人觉得心里暖烘烘的。Helping people become parents, it turns out, is just the start for Glow. Its founders have a bigger vision in mind: to add research to a field where data is lacking. They want to use the information Glow collects about reproductive cycles to improve women’s health more broadly. This has led to several new ventures, including launching a new post-conception app and gathering anonymized user information for use in studies for the medical community.事实明,帮助用户升级为父母只是Glow公司迈出的第一步。它的创始人怀揣着更大的愿景,那就是把研究引进一个缺乏数据的领域。他们想用Glow应用收集的生育周期信息来更全面地提高女性健康水平。这种抱负已经催生了一些新的项目,包括推出一个新的怀后应用软件,收集匿名用户信息供医学界进行研究。For the unfamiliar, Glow collects information about reproductive cycles. It uses algorithms to track the progress of a woman’s period, calculate when she’s ovulating, and ultimately predict when the next window of fertility opens. The app is free, though there is a paid option called Glow First. (Fortunefirst wrote about Glow a year ago.)对不熟悉它的人来说,Glow的功能就是收集生育周期信息。它用算法来跟踪女性的经期,计算她们的排卵时间,从而最终预测下一次受机会窗口从什么时候开启。这是一款免费的应用软件,同时也提供一个名叫Glow First的应用内购买项目【《财富》(Fortune)一年前率先对Glow进行过报道】。To accomplish its research goals, Glow must market to a broader group of women and not just those who are trying to get pregnant. Today, Glow reports that half of its users aren’t even trying to get pregnant—they use the app to take advantage of the insights it can provide, such as warning signs for endometriosis. (The company won’t say how many people in total are using it.)为了实现研究目标,Glow必须获得范围更广的女性用户,而不仅仅是那些正在设法怀的女性。该公司表示,目前一半的Glow用户都不是为了受,而是用它来了解自己的健康情况,比如是否有子宫内膜异位的迹象(该公司没有说明Glow的用户总数)。“We’re able to just get the data and apply information so that we can return something useful,” says Mike Huang, Glow’s chief executive.Glow公司首席执行官麦克o黄说:“我们可以获得数据并且运用这些信息,然后把一些有用的东西反馈出去。”This was the plan from the start. After launching Glow in last August, Levchin (who serves as executive chairman) and Huang made modifications to appeal to women who weren’t trying to conceive (often shortened to the acronym “TTC”). Glow 3.0 launched in January, with new features intended for women who only want to track their periods and better understand their menstrual cycles.这就是最初的计划。去年8月份建立这家公司后,列夫琴(现任该公司执行董事长)和麦克o黄做出了一些调整,目的是吸引那些并未尝试受(通常被简称为TTC)的女性。1月份推出的Glow 3.0版专门为那些只想追踪并更好地了解自身经期的女性提供了一些新功能。In July, the company took another step. It launched Glow Nurture, a separate mobile application tailored to pregnancy rather than fertility. In essence, the new app intends to answer the question, “We’ve conceived. Now what?”7月份,该公司又向前迈进了一步——它推出了另一款移动应用软件Glow Nurture,对象是准妈妈们,而不是想受的人群。这款新应用的核心就是回答一个问题:“我怀上宝宝了,然后呢?”“We’ve been getting tons and tons of requests over the past several months for the same data-driven approach [as the original Glow app] with a high-quality, warm design,” Huang says of the new app.对于Glow Nurture,黄表示:“过去几个月中,许多人都希望我们推出同样的数据驱动型软件(就像Glow一样],而且质量要高,设计要贴心。” /201409/326525

When Jean Paul Gaultier announced at the beginning of the women#39;s wear season#39;s four-ring, four-week circus that this Saturday#39;s show would be his last y-to-wear collection, and that he was going to concentrate on couture and fragrance and special collaborations like costumes and interiors instead, it seemed like the end of an era.在这个辗转四城、为期四周的女装季之初,让·保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)就宣布:周六的走秀将是他的最后一个成衣系列,此后他将专注于高级定制装和香水,以及戏和室内设计方面的特殊合作,感觉像是一个时代结束了。The first reaction was shock: Oh, no! How can we imagine a y-to-wear schedule without the one-time enfant terrible of French fashion — whose y-to-wear shows had been among the hottest tickets in fashion week, with editors literally fighting for entree? Even if, in recent seasons, many of those same editors (myself included) had thought (or, ahem, written) that Mr. Gaultier#39;s y-to-wear was becoming increasingly irrelevant, relying on the crutch of old ideas that may have been sensationalist 15 years ago, but now seemed achingly familiar?人们的第一反应是震惊:啊,不!我们怎能想象成衣盛事中不再有这个法国时尚曾经的淘气鬼呢——在这个时装季上,他的成衣秀的入场券最为抢手,时尚编辑们为了入场资格“大打出手”。最近几季,这些时装编辑中有许多人(包括我自己在内)也觉得高缇耶的成衣愈来愈落后于潮流,依仗的是了无新意的创意,它们放在15年前可能很轰动,今天就显得极其平庸了,尽管如此,我们还是会抢票。Then came sadness: Was this yet another example of commerce squashing creativity, with the Spanish conglomerate Puig, which bought a majority stake in Mr. Gaultier#39;s company from Hermès in 2011, bloodlessly stopping support of what had ceased to be a moneymaking endeavor? (Well, it#39;s a license business, so probably not.) Absent from the y-to-wear schedule and all the attention it draws, would Mr. Gaultier, like Christian Lacroix, another formerly famous French name that slid off the schedule on the back of falling sales and who is now concentrating on (yup) costumes and other collaborations, fade into the ether of long ago?随之而来的反应是悲伤:这是否又是一个商业击垮创意的例子呢?要知道,2011年,西班牙产业集团普依格(Puig)从爱马仕手中买下了高缇耶公司的多数股份,它无情地停止持那些不能赚钱的尝试(好吧,它是一家特许公司,所以可能是否定的)。高缇耶离开了成衣走秀和它所带来的各种关注,是否会走上克里斯汀·拉克鲁瓦(Christian Lacroix)的老路,消失在过去时代的迷雾之中呢?拉克鲁瓦也曾是一个响亮的法国名字,销量下滑后离开了成衣走秀,如今专注于(这个……)戏和其他方面的合作。But then, after sitting through show after show in New York and London and Milan, I started to think perhaps we were looking at this the wrong way.但是在纽约、伦敦和米兰看了一场又一场的走秀之后,我开始觉得我们的视角或许错了。Maybe it is a much-needed public acknowledgment of a subject that has been mumbled and grumbled about in ateliers and over dinners throughout the last few weeks, as vintage this and accessible that have been regularly repackaged and presented as the Hot New Thing.就像古董或普通的东西经常被拿出来重新包装成流行的新玩意,它不再退出成衣系列的消息最近几周来成为了各工作室和餐桌上的热门话题,而他的声明是对这个话题非常有必要的公开承认。Maybe this is someone finally acting on the belief that what the cycle now demands from designers — to be creative and original about every two months — is not sustainable. Maybe it is someone making a choice, and just saying no. And he is doing it with corporate support (the corporate side of things, in fashion, often being demonized as bleeding designers dry instead of allowing them the luxury of fewer products).时装圈要求设计师每隔两个月都要有创意和创新,或许他相信这种事很难维持下去,于是终于采取了行动。或许他做了选择,对此说“不”。他的做法得到了公司的持(在时装界,公司方面经常被妖魔化为榨干设计师的鲜血,而不是允许他们享有只推出少量产品的奢侈)。After all, when Mr. Gaultier started his business in 1982, fashion was not even an industry. Designers made two collections a year. When he introduced couture in 1997, that brought his grand total of collections up to four. With men#39;s wear, it went to ... six!毕竟,当高缇耶从1982年创办自己的公司时,时装甚至还算不上工业。设计师们每年推出两个系列。1997年,他引入了高级定制概念,于是每年总共要推出四个系列。加上男装,就变成了……六个系列!Now, of course, a designer in a similar position is looking at about double that, thanks to the rise of pre-collections and occasion collections. And given that from 2003 to 2010 Mr. Gaultier was also the artistic director of Hermès women#39;s wear, you can add a few more numbers to the list.如今,由于预系列和临时系列的兴起,像他这样的设计师工作量可能要翻番。而且从2003年至2010年,高缇耶还担任爱马仕女装的艺术总监,你可以在他的工作列表上再添几项。As a result, said the designer in a letter to Women#39;s Wear Daily explaining his decision, ;Commercial constraints, as well as the frenetic pace of collections, don#39;t leave any freedom, nor the necessary time to find fresh ideas and to innovate.;其结果正如这位设计师发表在《女装日报》(Women#39;s Wear Daily),解释自己决定的信中所说:“商业的限制以及推出系列的疯狂步调让我不得自由,也没有时间去革新、寻找新的创意。”Arguably his creative famine is his own fault for having taken on so much over the years, however good the reasons seemed at the time (to support his own line; for the challenge; all of the above). But there is no greater proof of his words than his own career.认为他才思枯竭是自己造成的这样一种看法——因为这些年他负担一直太重,不管理由在当时是多么理所当然(持自己的品牌、接受挑战,或者上述全部)——是值得商榷的。不过,事实胜过雄辩。Mr. Gaultier#39;s extraordinary technical abilities and understanding of how to construct a garment, skills he learned in the ateliers of Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou, allowed him to turn fashion on its head, challenging such received notions of dress and society as where underwear belongs, that religious garb was a sacred cow, and that basics were — well, basic.高缇耶非凡的技术能力和对制作衣的理解,以及他在皮尔·卡丹(Pierre Cardin)和让·巴杜(Jean Patou)的工作室学来的技巧,让他可以彻底改变时尚潮流,挑战装和社会的即成概念,诸如内衣的穿法,宗教装神圣不可触碰的观念,以及基本款装就是……基本的。But such ideas, worked through as completely and elegantly as they were on his runways, have not appeared in a very long time. Instead we got gimmicky guest appearances by paparazzi magnets like the stripper Dita Von Teese and the drag performer Conchita Wurst, this year#39;s Eurovision winner.这些观念虽然曾在他的秀台上得以完整与优雅的体现,却很久没有出现了。相反,他让脱衣舞娘蒂塔·冯·提斯(Dita Von Teese)和今年Eurovision的获奖者、异装演员肯奇塔·沃斯特(Conchita Wurst)这些八卦小报的宠儿们做奇怪的客串亮相。So, whether closing his y-to-wear business was Mr. Gaultier#39;s idea or not — Ralph Toledano, head of the Puig fashion division, said it was the designer#39;s decision, and given that Puig owns both Paco Rabanne and Nina Ricci, two houses that survived for decades on perfume alone before being restarted as y-to-wear brands, you can understand why they might think this O.K. — the fact is, in taking himself off the schedule, Mr. Gaultier is putting the issue on the table.所以,不管关掉成衣公司是不是高缇耶本人的主意——普依格时装部门的主管拉尔夫·托勒达诺(Ralph Toledano)说这是高缇耶自己的主意,普依格还拥有帕高·拉巴纳(Paco Rabanne)和莲娜丽兹(Nina Ricci)这两个品牌,它们都是在香水界生存了几十年后转为成衣品牌的,所以你可以理解,为什么普依格觉得高缇耶关掉公司也不要紧——事实就是,通过退出成衣界,高缇耶把问题摆在了桌面上。And for the first time, it is not there because of a crisis like John Galliano#39;s implosion at Dior in 2011 or Alexander McQueen#39;s suicide in 2010, occasions that caused momentary soul-searching in the industry, but because of a conscious, articulated decision.这一次的事不像2011年约翰·加利亚诺(John Galliano)在迪奥期间搞出的危机,或是2010年亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的自杀,那些事件在业界引起过片刻的深思, 高缇耶的放弃是出于深思熟虑,这在业界还是第一次。The question now is whether the step back from y-to-wear will make any obvious difference. If Mr. Gaultier can retrieve the magic of his earlier years in his couture shows — which once upon a time transformed my understanding of how clothes could transcend their antecedents (a couture fitting that involved a long evening dress that began in the form of a knit French marinière, but ended in gently wafting ostrich feathers is forever imprinted on my mind) — then the fashion world, which loves nothing more than rediscovering genius (or should I say ;Genius!;) will once again hold him up as an example. Perhaps even one worth following.如今的问题是,他离开成衣界是否会造成显著的改变。如果高缇耶可以重新得到他早年那些定制时装秀上的魔法——那些时装秀曾经改变了我对时装可以如何超越先例的理解(比如有这样一套定制装,包括一件晚礼,上身是针织的法式蓝白条纹,裙摆是飘飘荡荡的鸵鸟毛,它深深铭刻在我的心中)——时装界最喜欢的就是回归的天才(我是不是应该说“天才!”),那么他一旦归来,是否又会被树为典范呢?或许这也值得关注。If it doesn#39;t, of course, then as is its wont, fashion will blink, and move on.当然,如果他不能再找回那些魔法,时装界也会像它一贯以来的那样,眨眨眼睛,继续往前走。We will have to wait until next January to find out which situation proves true. But in the meantime, one thing is sure: come his spring swan song this week, Mr. Gaultier#39;s show will once again be the one to see. Mr. Toledano says they have aly been getting urgent phone calls from all over the world demanding tickets.我们会等到明年一月,来看看究竟是哪种情况。但是与此同时,有一件事是确定的:这个星期,来看他的春夏季天鹅之歌吧。高缇耶的走秀值得一看。托勒达诺说,全世界想要票的人都忙着给他打电话。Bring your elbow pads, and get y to push.戴上护肘,准备去抢票吧。 /201410/335079

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